Ugly Dumpling, London: ‘Inventive, cheap and hit-and-miss’ – restaurant review | Jay Rayner on restaurants

Some of the food may be flawed and exceedingly silly – but it works

Ugly Dumpling, 1 Newburgh Street, London W1F 7RB (020 7287 5336). Meal for two, including drinks and service £25-£40

Having a long history is not the same as being good. Some things – jellied eels, say, or Norman Tebbit – have been around ages and have always been awful. And then there are things which have awfulness thrust upon them by virtue of having existed long enough for the world to have moved on without them. So it is with the curry puff from Old Chang Kee, which began life as a food item sold from a Singapore street-food cart in 1956. The cart became a restaurant, which in turn became a 100-strong chain across Asia and Australia.

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from The Guardian https://ift.tt/2zkE4dZ